Chapter 2 of Nobody Told Me About Tbilisi

Chapter 2 of Nobody Told Me About Tbilisi

On the Bread That Never Makes It Home Whole

Fresh shoti exists in two states: before the first corner is torn off - and after. For the first twenty steps, you still believe the bread might reach home whole.

Hot bread is never as big as you remember it. Fresh shoti exists in two states: before the first piece is torn off, and after. The baker wraps it in a newspaper. Not the whole thing – just enough to protect your hand. The smell takes care of itself.

For the first twenty steps, you behave yourself. Then you break off a tiny corner – just to check if it’s still hot. Then another. After that, it’s too late to stop. Then someone spots the bread – a neighbour, the woman selling herbs, someone you’ve seen maybe twice in your life. They look at you first, then at the newspaper bundle. Always with the same expression.

“Hot?”

“Hot.”

“Let me try.”

You break off another corner, not for yourself this time.

By the end of the block, it’s obvious you’re no longer taking the whole loaf home. At home they’ll ask: “Was it really that small?” And you’ll answer honestly: “No. It was much bigger.” They won’t believe you, but they won’t argue either – they would have done exactly the same.

There is probably someone in Tbilisi who has carried a hot shoti all the way home without breaking off a single piece. I’ve just never met them.

Word of the Day: Shoti (SHOH-tee) – a traditional Georgian bread that somehow gets smaller with every step from the bakery to your home.

Chapter 3 of Nobody Told Me About Tbilisi
Chapter 3 of Nobody Told Me About Tbilisi

On Balconies, Where Half of Life Is Kept

A Tbilisi balcony is never just a balcony. It is a pantry, a wardrobe, a workshop, a storage room – and sometimes the most honest portrait of the people inside.